For a weekend away from home and out of the ordinary, there is an area of Tuscany still little touched by mass tourism that combines culture, sea and mountains. Between the Etruscan Coast and the continental villages, discover the heart of Tuscany and all its richness.
Weekend in Val di Cecina: where does the Maremma begin?
It is customary to classify the Val di Cecina area as “high Maremma” (thus distinguishing it from the Grosseto Maremma). Among the main locations in the area, the seaside destinations stand out, organized for especially local seaside tourism ( Cecina , Castagneto Carducci and Bibbona ). But also the “passage” towns, such as Populonia and Piombino , where tourists pass by to chase the ferries or stop for a few days.
However, it is worth discovering the smaller villages, which offer breathtaking views and the ideal tranquility for a relaxing holiday. Immersed in nature but close to large population centers and the sea, Bolgheri , Guardistallo , Riparbella and above all Montescudaio are unusual destinations, but full of surprises.
Weekend in Val di Cecina: discovering Montescudaio
Inserted among the most beautiful villages in Italy, Montescudaio is a town in the province of Pisa which is home to less than 3,000 people. Located on top of a hill, it overlooks the sea of Cecina looking at it from above. According to some legends, its raised position protected the more continental villages from the threats of foreigners advancing by sea.
Walking through the streets of the village, surrounded by the flowers that decorate the entrances of almost all the houses, it is impossible not to notice the paintings by Stefano Tonelli , a local painter. During the pandemic he gave Montescudaio a series of works dedicated to characters who changed the world. Explosions of color that aim to remind us which ideas to start from in order to really be better.
Nature reigns supreme: from campsites to nature reserves
Among the beaches that are preparing to be stormed by tourists and the town that is beginning to repopulate, in Cecina there is the “Tomboli di Cecina” biogenetic nature reserve . It is a pine forest created in 1839 by the then Grand Duke Leopold. Today, among the tomboli – sand dunes created by the wind that protect crops from the coast – it is possible to see stone pines and Limonium etruscum.
And not only that, also shrubs and junipers. It extends for over 15 kilometers and includes 405 hectares of land : among the branches of its trees, you can encounter over 160 species of birds, but also typical fauna of the hills (such as roe deer, martens and porcupines), predators (such as hawks and herons) and three different species of turtles (two sea turtles, one land turtle).
The wine you don't expect: adieu Sangiovese, bonjour Merlot
Just 16 kilometers from the campsite is Bolgheri , known as the noble capital of wine. His treasure, the Sassicaia wine , was born from the intuition of the Marquis Incisa della Rocchetta , who – having obtained the entire territory of the Livorno countryside following his marriage to Caterina della Gherardesca , studied its particularities and discovered that – contrary to popular beliefs – had all it takes to offer good wine.
The Tuscan tradition of the Chianti areas has always focused on the excellence of Sangiovese , which to be of high quality requires extensive excursions and to be protected from the “saline” air of the sea. The territory of Bolgheri (with a mild climate thanks to the shield of the mountains, but saline thanks to the presence of the sea) is instead more similar to the environment found in the south of France. It is therefore the savoir faire of Bordeaux that one must look at, preferring wines such as Merlot , Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Vernau.